Sunday, September 7, 2008

旅行第一站:5/8/08~河内,越南~Bye Bye & 乘搭火车

今天是我最后一天在河内,Hang Be了,到处逛逛及拍照。
大概十点多,收拾好后就Check out,行李寄放旅舍。去了Tamarind Cafe 待了两个小时,然后到Love Planet(located at Hang Bac, second hand book shop,我的Vietnam Lonely Planet就在这边买的,才50,000VND)河内有好多的二手书店,还能换书,价钱都比新书来的便宜好多。
过后,回到旅舍和职员Chit Chat。大约2.30pm,我就召Motorbike Taxi载我去火车站。由于我的火车是6.30pm才开,所以就在火车站等。河内前往北京的火车票一星期只有两班,分别是星期二及星期六,所以必须提早预购。详情可浏览http://www.vr.com.vn/,其他入境中国的还有坐火车到Lao Cai,然后转乘巴士进入昆明。

车站内等候

这是Hanoi Railway Station

找人帮我拍照

Waitting Room

他是collaborator,在车站帮人协调,只有他会说英语,所以就和他闲聊起来。他告诉我有好多的越南学生乘火车到北京的。

火车职员,他正在骂人,因为有好多的越南人在那睡觉,霸占了位子。悄悄地拿起相机拍下他威武的一幕。:P

被他发觉了,他再要求我拍一张,呵!比较和蔼了。
5.30pm, 栏杆门开了,拿了行李上火车,我的车票是上铺。管它,先坐下才算吧!和我同车厢的是两位法国人,19岁,还是学生, Martin and Dennis。由于他们的一位朋友没拿到Visa,所以只好从越南飞回法国了,所以这车厢只有我们三个,顺理成章我睡下铺啦!:)
在火车上,就只有我是一个人的,而且还是女生。当我告诉一位外国人时,他说:''oh!that was crazy!"他是过后会到西安及武汉。其他的越南人,有的以为我是中国人,有一位以为我是越南人,还和我说了几句越南话,他说我长得蛮像越南人。一段长达43个小时的路程,我做到了。单生女子,这没什么大不了的!

这是我的床。

他们一直嚷着肚子饿,终于找到了食物。

这是厕所及梳洗的地方。

大约10.40pm,抵达了同登(Dong Dang, border)。海关人员盖章后,我们就得换中国的列车了。
Bye, bye Hanoi, Vietnam。 越南,没什么嘛!语员不通还不是跨过了?
噢!北京,我来了,终于说华语了。

Saturday, September 6, 2008

旅行第一站:3/8/08-4/8/08~越南:Hoan Kiam Lake

一早起身,去吃了猪肠粉。吃完过后,看见别人给10,000VND,我也付他同样价钱。在越南会有外国人和当地人价钱的区分,一般的小贩都没有标价,如果他们知道你是外国人就会给你另一个价钱。所以呢!我都是尽量不开口,以免被宰。

我住的地方离Hoan Kiam Lake步行大约15分钟。从旅舍出来往右边一直走就到了, 从Hang Be 会经过Hang Dau然后到Dinh Tien Hoang。

Ngoc Son Temple, founded in the 18th century, is on an island in the northern part of Hoan Kiam Lake. Surrounded by water and shaded by trees. The temple is dedicated to the scholar Van Xuong, General Tran Hung Dao, who defeated the Mongols in the 13th century, and La To, the patron saint of physicians. It is reached via the red The Huc (Rising Sun) Bridge, which was constructed in 1885.


Hoan Kiam Lake

在歇息时,遇到了一位来自杭州的女生。两位上海的男生在另一端向我兜售扇子,‘你是日本人吗?’‘不是,我是马来西亚人’。‘怎么华语说得这么好?’‘我是华人啊!马来西亚的华人’过后我会到北京,然后上海,苏州及杭州。‘我们留个电话,有事可找我’。

在这儿我还遇到两位台湾人,都是华人,好久没说华语了,有股说不出的亲切感。

Hoan Kiam Lake是越南人晨运的地方,也是他们的休闲场所。

Lý Thái Tổ (Hán tự: 李太祖, birth name Lý Công Uẩn 李公) ruled Vietnam as emperor for 19 years from 1009 to 1028 under the Lý D‎ynasty of which he was the founder.

午餐吃了Bun Cha, (a lunch dish of chunks of smoky, barbecued pork with fish sauce and large serving of cold bun noodles)。真好吃!旁边的阿婆给10,000VND, 我也照付。但那老板娘却向我收15,000VND,我指了指阿婆,她一直向我要15,000VND。旁边的阿婆说越南语,根本听不懂。终于见识了到了越南人要外国人的价钱。唉! 一个让我留下的不好印象。

旅行第二站:2/8/08~越南的文化

早上6点多已醒了,很自然的睡醒,街上的喇叭声是闹钟的缘故吧!天已很亮了,像7点多。到处逛逛,找了一档坐下吃早餐。和不同语员,文化的人吃饭挺新鲜的。越南的街边美食是坐着小凳子吃的,大家平起平坐,比较有亲切感吧!

过后,就拿着摄录机及三脚架到处拍摄,好多的人看着,好新奇!这是背包旅行的自由度,可以任意地做自己喜欢的事。在这里,我是一个旅人,不用去理会别人的目光,反正没人认识我。

旅行第一站:1/8/08~Tam Coc, Ninh Binh

Tam Coc - Bich Dong (Vietnamese: Tam Cốc - Bích Động) is a popular tourist destination near the city of Ninh Binh in northern Vietnam. People also called this as Halong on the land. Vast limestone cliffs rise out of the rice paddies.
The Tam Coc (“three caves”) portion is a three-hour excursion by small boat along the Ngo Dong river, beginning at the village of Van Lam and proceeding through a scenic landscape dominated by rice fields and karst towers. The boats are typically rowed by one or two local women who also sell embroidered goods.





午餐过后,天开始下起雨,但却并没阻止前进的旅程。










和我同一艘船的是来自荷兰的男生,也是一个人旅行,过后也是会去北京看奥运。我们就这样的在细雨中欣赏风景。





这里真得很平静,没有像下龙湾的名气,反而有一个脱俗的美,平凡而简单。
有时,人生应该这样,听听划水声,简朴的生活一样令人满足。
途中,有船夫兜售纪念品,他们的好像在逼你一定要买似的。快上岸时,我们的船夫也一样,一直说‘小费’,‘Tip, tip ah'。 我和那位男生都不喜欢这样,哪有人逼你给小费的啊?丢了1000VND给他们就走了。
贫穷让他们活得没了自尊,渴望从游客身上讨取一些生活费。

Friday, September 5, 2008

旅行第一站:1/8/08~Hoa Lu, Ninh Binh

Ninh Binh (宁平)is a small town about 100km south of Hanoi, which is surrounded by a number of lesser known interesting sites.

Hoa Lu was the capital of Vietnam during the Dinh (968-80) and early Le (980-1009) dynasties. The site was a smart choice for a capital city because of the natural protection afforded by the region's bizarre landscape. The ancient citadel of Hoa Lu most of which has been destroyed, covered an area of about 3 sq km. The outre ramparts encompassed temples, shrines and the king's palace. The royal family lived in the inner citadel.





Yen Ngua Mountain provides a scenic backdrop for Hoa Lu's two remaining temples. Dinh Tien Hoang, was restored in the 17th century and is dedicated to the Dinh dynasty.

Dinh Tien Hoang, growing up in a local village, Đinh Bộ Lĩnh became a local military leader. From this anarchic era, the first independent Vietnam emerged. Faced once more with the threat of a powerful China, Đinh Bộ Lĩnh tried to find ways to reunify the country. Upon the death of the last Ngô king in 963, he seized power and founded the new kingdom in his home province, Hoa Lư. To consolidate his legitimacy, he married a member of the Ngô family.
At first, Đinh Bộ Lĩnh had been careful to avoid antagonizing the Southern Han Empire. But in 966 he adopted the title of Emperor (Hoàng Đế) and declared his independence from Chinese rule. Under the name of Đinh Tiên Hoàng, he founded the Đinh Dynasty and called his kingdom Đại Cồ Việt. Well aware of the new Chinese Song Dynasty's military might, Đinh Bộ Lĩnh obtained a non-aggression treaty of the country's independence in exchange for tributes payable to the Chinese every three years. This arrangement with China was carried out until the 19th century and the advent of French colonization.
In 972, however, he pacified the new Song Dynasty by sending a tribute mission to demonstrate his fealty to the Chinese Emperor. Emperor Taizu of Song, who was ruling China, subsequently recognized the Vietnamese ruler as Giao Chỉ Quận Vương (Head of Giao Chỉ District).
Đinh Bộ Lĩnh energetically reformed the administration and the armed forces to strengthen the foundation of the new Vietnamese state. He established a royal court and a hierarchy of civil and military servants. He instated a rigorous justice system and introduced the death penalty to serve as a deterrent to all who threatened the new order in the kingdom.
However, Đinh Bộ Lĩnh's reign did not last long. In 980 a palace guard killed both Đinh Bộ Lĩnh and his eldest son Đinh Liễn in their sleep. He was succeeded by his six-year old son. In the meantime, the Chinese Emperor wanted to take advantage of the young king by sending an army to attack Đại Cồ Việt.
In this crisis, Lê Hoàn, a general in Đinh Bộ Lĩnh's army, dispossessed the child of Đinh, killed all of his opponents in the court, and entered into illicit relations with the Queen Mother. Lê Hoàn proclaimed himself King, and founded the Prior Lê Dynasty.
Đinh Bộ Lĩnh is also known by his posthumous name Đinh Tiên Hoàng (丁先皇).

丁部領(Đinh Bộ Lĩnh)是越南封建朝代丁朝的締造者,傑出的軍事領袖,後世尊稱為丁先皇(Đinh Tiên Hoàng)。

丁部領(或稱「丁桓」)[1],其父丁公著乃交趾統治者楊廷藝的牙將,丁部領成年後承襲其位,成為華閭洞的一方主宰。951年吳昌岌、吳昌文兄弟征伐丁部領根據地華閭洞,圍攻一個月未克,只好退兵。之後丁部領攻伐不服其統治之叔父丁預,其叔父畏懼而投降歸順,於是丁部領勢力進一步增強。965年丁部領同十二使君之一的陳覽聯合,陳覽收其為養子,並將兵權與部屬交其統領管轄(「部領」之名因此而來),陳覽逝世後取而代之成為割據越南北部和中部的十二使君之一。

當丁部領擊潰其他十一位使君並統一交趾的割據勢力後,968年建立大瞿越國,兩年後制定年號太平,定都華閭(今寧平省寧平市),尊號大勝明皇帝,冊封其嫡長子丁璉為南越王,隨後派遣丁璉為使者攜帶方物向中國北宋皇朝請封。975年宋太祖封丁部領為「安南都護」、「檢校太尉」、「交趾郡王」,將越南視為「列藩」。但979年丁朝因皇位繼承問題發生了宮廷政變。起因是丁部領寵愛一名妃子,其寵妃生下一子取名丁項郎。丁部領大為喜悅,並冊立丁項郎為皇太子,卻因此和原本該為皇太子的丁璉發生衝突。丁璉憤恨之下派人刺殺丁項郎,結果丁部領和丁璉之間就此起了嫌隙。後來竟在某事件中,丁部領和丁璉同時被宮廷侍衛杜釋逆弒。杜釋原為桐關吏,野心很大,企圖篡奪皇位。於是在某天晚上,杜釋乘丁部領「夜宴醉臥廷中,遂弒之,害及南越王璉。」而後定國公阮匐誅殺杜釋,立丁部領年僅六歲的嫡次子丁璿為帝,並將丁部領遺體葬於華閭山陵(後改名為長安山陵),追崇諡號為先皇帝,丁部領遂稱丁先皇。但執掌丁朝兵權的十道將軍黎桓,卻趁此跟丁璿的生母楊雲娥太后私通,並逐漸奪此朝政而自稱副王(副皇帝),獨攬大權。

980年黎桓篡位,建立前黎朝,丁朝滅亡。
............................................................................................................................
The second temples, Le Dai Hanh commemorates the rulers of the early Le Dynasty.


Lê Hoàn (941–1005; Hán tự: 黎桓), posthumous name Lê Đại Hành, was a king of Vietnam under the Anterior Lê Dynasty. He was the commander in chief of the armies of Emperor Đinh Bộ Lĩnh, but also had an illicit relationship with the Empress Dowager, dethroned Đinh Bộ Lĩnh’s heir and proclaimed himself king in 980. He retained the capital in Hoa Lư and succeeded in warding off several Chinese invasions by the Song Court, but continued paying them tributes every three years in exchange for a peaceful relations.
Lê Đại Hành’s reign marked the first attempt to consolidate the Vietnamese nation. He devoted a great deal of energy to developing the road network in order to better administer the country’s different regions. However, the local forces were still reluctant to toe the line to the central authority and mounted a succession of revolts.
Lê Hoàn’s 25 year reign was marked by foreign wars. The Song Dynasty in China had hoped to take advantage of the instability in Vietnam by launching an invasion of its ex-dependency, but Lê Hoàn defeated the Chinese armies in 981 (see: Battle of Bạch Đằng (981)) and obtained official Chinese recognition of Vietnamese independence.
On the domestic scene, the reign of Lê Hoàn was marked by efforts to strengthen the fragile structure of the infant Vietnamese state. He relied to a considerable degree on his sons, several of whom he appointed as governors of key provinces. Lê Hoàn died in 1005, leading to a fratricidal strife among his heirs. The victor himself died two years later, leaving an infant son as successor. Through intrigues at court, a mandarin by the name of Lê Công Uẩn was placed on the throne and founded a new Lý Dynasty.
In 1005, after 24 years of difficult rule, Lê Đại Hành died. The Tiền Lê dynasty eventually collapsed after the death of one of Lê Đại Hành’s heirs in 1009.
His successor, Lê Trung Tông, neglected to give him a posthumous name in accordance with other East Asian royalties. He is thus known by the default name, Lê Đại Hành (黎大行, literally "Lê The Departed").
黎桓(Lê Hoàn)是越南前黎朝的開國君主,由於即位時稱號(也是歿後諡號)大行皇帝,後世對他稱呼作黎大行(Lê Đại Hành)。

黎桓的先祖來自現在中國廣西的桂林市陽朔縣,他原任丁朝軍隊的最高統帥十道將軍。979年因丁朝開國君主丁部領與其子丁璉同時遭到宮廷侍衛杜釋行刺身亡,繼任君主丁璿年幼無法處理朝政,黎桓趁此跟丁部領遺孀楊雲娥太后私通並逐漸奪權。丁朝舊臣定國公阮匐、外甲丁佃、范盍等人不滿黎桓的逾越行徑而起兵反抗,結果被掌握朝廷兵力優勢的黎桓一一擊敗並消滅其反對勢力。980年黎桓被朝臣擁立為皇帝,建立前黎朝,稱號大行皇帝,尊號明乾應運神武昇平至仁廣孝皇帝。中國宋朝聞訊丁朝君主被權臣篡位,起兵南下征討,卻慘遭越南軍隊的伏擊而潰敗。之後黎桓為求宋冊封,與宋通好。993年宋封其為「交趾郡王」。997年又加封其為「南平王」,承認前黎朝政權。

982年黎桓起兵親征占城,攻陷其王都,迫使占城稱臣納貢。對內實行軍事統治,嚴刑峻法。開鑿運河,發展經濟。分封其十一子為王,鎮守各地,以鞏固統治。1002年改全國十道為路、州、府。但因諸王間的內爭、地方強豪的爭鬥和山區酋長的反叛頻繁,農民起義與少數民族的反抗不斷爆發,國勢不穩,黎桓遂進行殘酷鎮壓。率軍平定少數民族芒人河蠻洞(今清化省石城縣)等四十九洞,並剿平各地。1005年逝世,享壽六十四歲,葬德陵。

但黎桓逝世後數年,大將李公蘊被擁立為帝,創建李朝,前黎朝遂亡。越南和中國史料記載:「黎桓性本凶狠」,黎桓及其後代均為貪酒好淫之徒。就黎桓本人來說,後宮美女成群,其生活極為糜爛,揮金如土,肉林酒池。黎桓有十一子,各被封為東城王、南封王、開明王、中國王……等。黎桓晚年,諸子爭位十分激烈,尤其以東城王黎龍錫和開明王黎龍鋌爭奪王位最為突出。南封王黎龍鉞為黎桓第三子,最為寵愛,黎桓臨終時命其繼承皇位。但黎龍鉞即位後僅三日,竟被黎龍鋌所殺。
我不喜欢历史,但却无法避开它。没有它,就没有今天的我。今天的国家,是从多少年来的斗争所得,但历史的前鉴是否让人改进呢?

Thursday, September 4, 2008

越南的天气

越南的天气超热的。怎么没下雨?
每一天冲凉过后,就流汗。一天到晚拿着扇子,边走边扇。
第二天晚上就开始下雨了,还是很热。。。。。。
发觉越南人都起得特别早,早上6点多,天已很亮了,街上都卖吃的,好多特别的东西看。
感觉他们的步伐都缓慢的,人也比较纯朴。只是街上的车或Motorbike的喇叭声此起疲落,令人毫不厌烦。

旅行第一站:31/7/08~下龙湾

大约下午5点多,回到了船上。在上层的船享受着徐徐的风迎面扑来。
我很喜欢这里,脑里一片空白,因为装的只有这里的风景。
旅行车驶向河内的方向,不久他们就放我在一个地方下车,还指示我跟前面的车子回旅舍。我就在那傻傻地等了接近40分钟,司机来了。当我要上车时,那司机说‘No, no',???我说有人叫我跟你的车啊!怎么这样?又打了旅舍的电话(因为我是向他报名的)‘Where are you?', 我不知道,又把手机递给那司机。叽里咕噜了一阵子,啊!旅舍的Manh Tien驾着Motorbike出现了,救星到了。我就把事情告诉了他,他很不好意思,跟我道歉。过后又打了电话给相关的负责人责问为何放我在那等(我也听不懂他们的越南语,但大概是这样吧)。
其实,我下车的地方离我的旅舍很近而已,是我听错指示了吗?还是他是叫我跟那车走回去吧!
终于拿到了前往北京的火车票(US165), 护照还在火车站的人员那儿,明天9点会还回给我。心还是很不放心,蛮怕他骗我的,没办法就等明天吧!
晚餐去吃了Xoi, sticky rice topped with coconut, chicken... 20,000VND, 位于Nguyen Huu Huan, 这是依据Pathfinder介绍去寻找的。(我就是拿着那本书,指着书我所要吃的)
P/S: Hanoi is world famous for its street food, so all the food I tried based on the book.